2015;14(1):24-30.). I can provide a review article of the use of silicone in skincare with 76 referenced research articles investigating the successful and efficient use of silicones in topical drug delivery systems. Be sure to only use this a couple of times a … Retinol products are not recommended for use by pregnant or nursing mothers. Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Retinol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Chrysin, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ceramide NP, Xanthophylls, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Jojoba Esters, Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Carthamus Tinctorium (Safflower) Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Lauric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glucosamine HCL, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Tocopherol, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-23, Steareth-20, Propanediol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin. The first products I use are a pump of the C-Firma Vitamin C serum and a pump of the Protini Polypeptide Cream. Winter Cherry Juice: This extract comes from the seeds of the physalis fruit (not actually a cherry), a plant native to Egypt that contains more pollution-fighting antioxidant carotenoids than any other fruit or vegetable. Vitamin F and a blend of comforting passionfruit, apricot, marula, and jojoba oils replenish essential lipids and moisture, while antioxidant-packed kale, winter cherry, and xanthophylls help defend against environmental stressors. Great way to try out a few of the most popular products from this brand. Protini, Drunk Elephant's newest launch (which just went live on Sephora.com), is the result of a conversation Masterson had with her mom and research done on a … B-HYDRA™ INTENSIVE HYDRATION SERUM 3 ML/1 FL OZ Retinol products are not recommended for use by pregnant or nursing mothers. Topical tretinoin was first licensed and used to treat actinic keratoses (sun damage) and acne in 1971. The research is absolutely NOT longstanding or confirmatory. Drunk elephant stays away from the Suspicious 6 which include silicones, essential oils, chemical screens, SLS, drying alcohols, and fragrance/dyes. In the cell, retinoic acid regulates and alters gene expression via binding to Retinoic Acid Response Elements (RARE) which are critical DNA sequences in the promoter regions of select genes. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream is a solid product for those who are used to using retinol, but may be too harsh for those who are new to retinoids. The product in question has 61 ingredients. The treatments were used once daily for 48 weeks and there was no significant difference in the overall improvement in photoaging produced by the two concentrations but 0.1% tretinoin was significantly more irritating (reference: Griffiths CEM, Kang S, Ellis CN et al. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen. I do think that Drunk Elephant should come out with a lower strength -possibly .05 % for those that are younger or those just looking to ease into the process of using retinol. Get Drunk Elephant (and a special 15% off welcome offer for new subscribers) sent straight to your inbox! How Does Drunk Elephant's $68 Protini Moisturizer Stack Up to Acure's Under $20 Rival? ), Babcock et al (2015) have published a reasonably well-powered split face study in 65 subjects comparing retinol with tretinoin in various concentrations and found that the sustained release retinol complex used in the study was comparable to the tretinoin in producing the desired improvement on photodamaged skin of humans (J Drugs Dermatol. It’s safe for 99% of people, but if you have skin cancer avoid. I mix this in … Available sizes: 30 ml / 1 fl oz, 10 ml / .33 fl oz. The bottom line is that, as yet, there is not sufficient evidence to state categorically that 1% retinol is equivalent to tretinoin. The compounding vehicle is thus designed to allow penetration of the drug it is mixed with. It’s suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone. Consider this a glass of water for your thirsty skin. Silicones…reduce the amount of actives that are available to skin…the fact that [the product] lacks silicones makes it a much faster penetrating formula + you’re getting the full dose is 1% without any loss (re: due to silicones)…’ (note from NS: quote taken verbatim, grammatical errors by quoted author). Next step, both morning and night…I now mix 1 drop marula oil with 1 pump of B hydra (if my skin is feeling really dry. Though none of these are silicone-based, chlorhexidine is one of the ingredients and this is known to be a strong irritant to skin. The vehicle used to deliver the tretinoin in the compounded prescription Dermatica product has the following ingredients: Purified water, humectants, O/W emulsifier, lubricants, silicone, rheology enhancer, preservative, vitamin E. Silicone is one of the key ingredients in this particular vehicle for tretinoin and it does not cause any problems with efficacy or tolerability. TODAY I REVIEW DRUNK ELEPHANT'S NEW A-PASSIONI RETINOL CREAM (NOT SPONSORED). This Drunk Elephant retinol has officially earned a permanent spot in my rotation. One study suggests that it might be due, at least partially, to an ‘overload’ of the retinoic acid-dependent pathway with non-physiologic amounts of exogenous retinoic acid in the skin. We do not fully understand how or why retinoid dermatitis occurs (see below for a more thorough explanation of this) but we do know that irritation is not a requirement for a topical retinoid to be efficacious; in other words, irritation is not a reflection of the ‘strength’ or ‘potency’ of the retinoid. Passionfruit, Apricot and Jojoba Oils: These rich oils have moisturizing and skin-soothing benefits. The other main difference between Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream and Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream is their texture.. A-Passioni™ is a cutting-edge formula that combines 1.0% vegan retinol with nourishing, superfood-rich ingredients to dramatically diminish the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles, and sun damage. It’s a silicone-free formulation that I think skin of any age can fall in love with. Vegan and cruelty-free. She contacted the manufacturer to ask ‘How is this causing dryness and peeling when prescription strength doesn’t?” She used this cosmetic retinol product for 2 days after having used prescription tretinoin 0.05% from @Dermatica.skin for a few months. However within two days of starting on the complete Drunk Elephant skin care line my face was erupting in horrible cystic acne everywhere, whiteheads appearing everyday and my skin was ten times more oily then it has ever been. Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream $68. Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Coconut Alkanes, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Wheat Amino Acids, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Niacinamide, Cyclodextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyproline, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, WHAT IT IS FORMULATED WITHOUT: Animal Fats/Oils/Musks, Benzalkonium Chloride, Benzophenone, Bisphenol A (BPA), Butoxyethanol, BHA, BHT, Chemical Sunscreens, Coal Tar Dyes, 1,4-Dioxane, -Cones, Detergent, Essential Oils, Ethanolamines (MEA/DEA/TEA), Formaldehyde, Fragrance, Hydroquinone, Methyl Cellosolve, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Mercury, Mercury Compounds, Mineral Oil, Oxybenzone, Parabens, Phthalates, Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs), Resorcinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Siloxanes, Thimerosal, Toluene, Triclosan, Triclocarban, Step 1: Unscrew and remove the cap Drunk Elephant uses a lot of actives in their skincare like vitamin c, glycolic aid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, enzymes, peptides, retinol, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, ceramides, etc. I’m hopeful it’ll fade my scars for good, but for now I’ll be enjoying the glow. Retinol treats fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage and pigmentation. For smoother, brighter, more hydrated skin. The first few days I mixed with another moisturizer (the Drunk Elephant Protini Cream) to lessen any of the typical retinol side effects- usually red, flaky, dry feeling skin. We appreciate your patience! The kit also contains the Slaii Makeup Melting Butter Cleanser, B-Hydra Hydration Serum and the A-Passoni Retinol Cream for a serious radiance-boost. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency to every other night, and then every night as tolerated. Drunk Elephant Lala Retro™ Whipped Moisturizer with Ceramides (I have dry skin, so prefer this over Protini, but I did really like both) Drunk Elephant A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream 1 oz/ 30 mL . ‘We can’t really say why you 0.5% (note from NS: Danielle was using 0.05%, factual error by quoted author) wasn’t as strong, because we don’t know the particulars of the formula.’. There is some evidence that retinaldehyde 0.05% induces effects similar to those of tretinoin 0.025% (Sorg O, Didierjean L, Saurat JH. This popular form of retinol is a must-have in your collection of skin care products. You can. Since the early 1980s, up to 92% of subjects using tretinoin in various studies report what has been coined ‘retinoid dermatitis’ – the development of red, itchy, flaky skin at the site of application. Just be sure to follow it with a healthy dose of SPF to keep the skin protected from photoaging. Retinoic acid binds to Retinoic acid Receptors (RAR) and Retinoic acid X Receptors (RXR). There are 3 issues the manufacturer raised and I have commented on each one: they relate to silicone in skincare and its effect on the efficacy of actives, why their retinol is supposedly ‘stronger’ than tretinoin, and the concept that a retinol is ‘equivalent’ to tretinoin. Triple Peptide Blend: A potent trio of peptides that helps firm and strengthen, boosting the age-fighting benefits of retinol. At a 1.0% concentration, our pure form of vegan retinol can dramatically improve the look and feel of uneven skin tone and texture, as well as ward off the damage done from daily exposure to UV rays, pollution, and other free radicals. It was found to have potent anti-aging effects when a number of women who had used it for facial acne reported an improvement in fine periorbital wrinkling. Drunk Elephant's specific formulation also has what the brand calls a "reservoir effect," meaning it stays active on the skin for up to 72 hours (even after you wash your face). The known benefits of topical retinoids are numerous and include renewing of epidermal cells, acting as UV filters, preventing oxidative stress, controlling cutaneous bacterial flora and improving the signs of skin aging and photo aging. Since retinoids are the only topical treatment that are known to have this type of effect, research into understanding how and why and therefore finding innovative ways to improve the way we use retinoids is a top priority. That being said, it is widely acknowledged that, especially in relation to the treatment of acne, increasing the concentration of the retinoid increase efficacy but may reduce tolerability. My skin is also dry and sensitive, which means that harsh acne treatments (like salicylic acid) tend to further inflame my breakouts. Check your email for a special 15% off welcome offer on your next purchase! And, btw, she was probably reacting to the chlorhexidine in the product, not the retinol. The retinoid that actually acts on the skin cells to cause a change is retinoic acid. Umbra Tinte™ Physical Daily Defense SPF 30, Umbra Sheer™ Physical Daily Defense SPF 30. Retinol is the best ingredient for younger looking skin. Even more recently I purchased the new Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream, which I love by the way, but I still felt like the rest of my routine with their products just simply wasn’t working out. ... Protini™ Polypeptide Cream $68.00. A-Passioni™ can be mixed with the other products before applying, which means you can completely adjust the amount, allowing your skin to ramp up at its own pace. Like many, I was confused and scared by the ingredient. She contacted the manufacturer to ask ‘ How is this causing dryness and peeling when prescription strength doesn’t?” Of the limited data available, retinaldehyde appears to be the most efficacious (which can also be hypothesised from the metabolism of vitamin A as shown below). Can the manufacturer please provide the trial data supporting the statement that the retinol in their product is ‘100% bioavailable to skin’? Shop. However, very few studies have been performed on OTC retinol products. I do have oily skin but thankfully not acne. She queried this directly with the manufacturer and received a response. (reference: Didierjean L, Carraux P, Grand D, et al. Drunk Elephant Protini™ Polypeptide Cream [product:drunk-elephant-a-passioni-retinol-cream] I got this kit today and it’s the perfect kit and a really great deal!! As someone is who is in the 30’s age bracket, I’m all about anti-aging products. Drunk Elephant Dewy The Polypeptide Kit, £63.00. Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops – This bronzer has the added benefit of protecting the skin from damaging free radicals. Please note, order processing times may be up to 7 business days due to the holiday. This cream complemented perfectly the retinol cream from Drunk Elephant or any other brands. Vitamin F: Soothing fatty acids (linolenic and linoleic) work to improve skin’s texture and suppleness and help calm signs of sensitivity. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream – 1% vegan retinol is the key ingredient in this anti-aging night cream, which is designed to help minimize the look of fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration. So, I did a little research, I reached out to Drunk Elephant, and here is why their skincare might not be working for you (and me). Virgin Marula Oil: This super-absorbable oil, high in critical antioxidants and omegas 6 and 9, helps moisturize, nourish, and rejuvenate skin for a youthful glow. Please note, due to an increase in order volume and the holiday, order processing time may be up to 7 business days. The first human study of tretinoin on facial wrinkling did not happen until 1983 and every study since has shown similar results – once daily use of tretinoin cream produces significant improvement in fine facial wrinkling associated with chronic sun exposure and biopsy studies confirm an increase in collagen and other positive changes in the dermis. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency to every other night, and then every night as tolerated. Indeed, silicones have been used for over 60 years to enhance the drug delivery and efficacy of topical and transdermal products. Step 2: Recycle both pieces. Learn more about the Drunk Elephant Difference + our stance on the Suspicious 6™. What Else Do You Need To Know? Don't forget to top it off with Umbra! 100% free of essential oils, silicones, and fragrance. As Drunk Elephant’s very own Vitamin C serum, C-Firma is undoubtedly one of the most popular products from the brand to… Mix a pump of B-Hydra with a dab of A-Passioni the first few times you use it so your skin can get acclimated to the retinol. Always check with your doctor before using any new products while pregnant or nursing. B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum. At a 1.0% concentration, our pure form of vegan retinol can dramatically improve the look and feel of uneven skin tone and texture, as well as ward off the damage done from daily exposure to UV rays, pollution, or other free radicals. However, the debate is still ongoing about whether or not these ‘downstream’ retinoids are as effective as the gold standard retinoic acid (tretinoin). I mix the two together in the palm of my hand (all of the products can be mixed together before application) and apply to my face and neck. @drunkelephant @rivas_nathan @dermatica.skin, ‘The retinol in [the product] is 100% bioavailable to skin because we don’t use any ingredients that would slow or prevent absorption (like siliciones or waxes). This morning I received a DM from @daniellelouisehay regarding a retinol product she had used from Drunk Elephant that she had quite a strong reaction to. It uses a blend of vegan retinol and a nasty-free formulation to deliver hard-working results, without any of the typical redness. (I will explain what each one of these things does in a second haha). I bought Apassioni while trying some products by Drunk Elephant: I loved some, I liked all, but this (maybe along with Protini) is the one I can’t imagine finding a substitute for. Contains a high one percent concentration of retinol, the gold standard ingredient for anti-aging. This picture illustrates the steps required for different types of retinoids to convert into the active form of retinoic acid. ‘1% retinol is equivalent to prescription tretinoin….Also, to be clear, research has long confirmed that 1% retinol is absolutely equivalent to prescription retinoids (i.e. In some patients, this is a serious limitation to the use of topical tretinoin and it has also raised the questions as to whether ‘irritation’ is the mechanism underlying the long-term positive repairing effects of treatment. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen. May be mixed with any Drunk Elephant cream or oil. Morning or night, apply a pea-size amount or less to clean, dry face, avoiding the eye area. My skin is its clearest and happiest when I use a skin barrier-supporting routine with Differin (a topical retinol) every other day. Mixing A-Passioni with C-Firma boosts the benefits of retinol, making it even more effective. The tretinoin used in the prescription Dermatica product is a pharmaceutical grade tretinoin that comes as tretinoin powder and is added in the compounding lab to a vehicle for application to the skin. This is potentially how using pre-cursor retinoids like retinaldehyde can prevent this ‘overload’ and thus reduce the irritation. This leads onto a separate yet very important question: Is the level of irritation you get from a topical retinoid a reflection of its ‘strength’? FRESH received direct from DRUNK ELEPHANT within the past few months. November 20, 2020 – 8:27 AM – 0 Comments. Contrary to skincare folklore, retinol is absolutely safe to use during the day—it even helps ward off pollution and UV-generated free radical damage! No one really knows what the mechanism is for retinoid dermatitis. Protini Polypeptide Cream. Retinol is actually just vitamin A. 30 Day Final Results from Daily Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Application. The vehicle has to be inert while also allowing the medication to impart its effect on the skin. So why does the irritation occur and what can you do about it? I thought you couldn’t mix it with AHAs. It comes with the midi of the Protini moisturizer and the full size of the retinol product which makes the kit worth it! 1.0% Retinol: Retinol is one of the most well-researched ingredients in skincare, capable of bringing balance to any skin concern. It doesn’t. However, every study has noted that the vehicle used for retinol delivery is of crucial importance in eliciting its efficacy as retinol is extremely unstable and easily gets degraded to biologically inactive forms on exposure to light and air (Mukherjee et al. Please see some of our patient before and afters on Instagram or contact us for more information. In order to answer this question, a study was performed comparing the efficacy and irritation of two concentrations of tretinoin cream, 0.1% and 0.025%. Danielle never experienced irritation or peeling with the Dermatica tretinoin product. ... A-Passioni Retinol Cream. Check out @carolinehirons for a detailed, unbiased overview of this DE product. While you can probably found other good vitamin c serum/chemical exfoliant, there is NOT another retinol like this out there. I now know it’s a powerhouse of an antioxidant that teaches skin cells to act younger...and I can’t imagine my line without it. More worrying perhaps is the fact that the manufacturer of this cosmetic product is saying that the cosmetic ingredient (retinol) is equivalent to a medicine; By definition a cosmetic product cannot be equivalent to a medicine. Clin Inter Aging 2006:1(4) 327-348.) Simply stated, the less steps required to get to the active form the more effective the topical treatment will be. Indeed, the fact that the manufacturers of the cosmetic product state that it takes longer to see a result from the use of retinol in itself is evidence that the two are far from equivalent. Dermatology 1999;199*suppl 1):13-7. There are hundreds of clinical trials investigating the anti-aging effects of topical retinoic acid (tretinoin); it is considered one of the most effective and well-substantiated compounds for treating the signs and symptoms of photodamage and aging skin. When using this in addition to Drunk Elephant B Hydra Intensive Hydration Gel and Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, the overall tone and texture of my skin drastically improved. Metabolism of topical retinaldehyde. Drunk ElephantA-Passioni Retinol Cream($74) sounds very, very exciting! Retinol is one of the most well-researched ingredients in skincare, capable of bringing balance to any skin concern. I don’t necessarily use B-Hydra morning and night everyday) with 1 pump of protini into my hand (like a little cocktail) and apply to my face. It may take your skin time to acclimate, so use just a tiny dab the first few times and/or cut it with B-Hydra. A-Passioni™ is packaged to protect the stability and potency of its light- and air-sensitive ingredients. Right now, this is pretty much the product that’s on every beauty editor’s lips and being … Potent carotenoids that exert a powerful defense against aging environmental stressors and electronic-device-emitted high energy visible (HEV) light, aka blue light. I generally start my patients on the lowest possible concentration of tretinoin – 0.012% or 0.025% - and start by using it three times a week only for the first 4 weeks. Topical retinaldehyde increases skin content of retinoic acid and exerts biologic activity in mouse skin.